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Jaan has long cemented its reputation as a molecular gastronomy haven, and chef Kirk Westaway doesn’t disappoint, having taken over the reins from Julien Royer.
He has succeeded in making complex, sophisticated dishes that are at the same time familiar on the palate. Degustation menus are seasonal here, so don’t expect the same dishes every time.
As with any fine dining restaurant, the meal starts with an amuse bouche, and the menu went into full swing with his starter of the Tomato Collection. Flavours of the vine-ripened heirloom tomato are intensified through a dehydration and rehydration process, and then stuffed with a mixture of Oxheart tomatoes, gherkins, capers and oregano.
After the sweet-tangy starter, plump creaminess is introduced with a “Majestic” Irish oyster, served with an artichoke cream and Oscietra caviar for a burst of brininess to cut through the cream.
The Cannon of Lamb is undoubtedly an elaborate dish of a sous vide lamb farce, paired with lamb roulade, sweet chutney, bagna càuda, anchovy fillets and jus-braised gem lettuce. Its hearty, comforting flavours belie the complexity required to make the dish.
The real star of the show is the Ivory Caramel dessert—a chocolate and caramel lover’s dream, made with white chocolate, flourless chocolate sponge, caramelised hazelnuts, sous vide Aero chocolate, sea salt caramelised white chocolate ice cream, dressed with a sprinkle of pop rocks and dark chocolate espuma.
When in doubt, the Krug-paired menu is a fail-safe, but obviously still luxurious, option. Then again, Jaan does have an impressive wine list, with wines by the glass all the way up to vintages that are hard to find anywhere else. If you’re unsure where to start, the sommelier is never too far away for a pairing recommendation.
Wait staff were efficient and professional without seeming obtrusive, and always ready to tend to customer’s needs.
The meal costs about $200+ per person, for the five-course degustation menu and wine.