At first glance, The Disgruntled Chef’s sister outlet on Ann Siang Road looks the same. Tucked in the corner of The Club hotel, the Disgruntled Brasserie invites guests with it soothing music and warm interiors fashioned after district’s history as a nutmeg and clove plantation.
Take a closer look and see how much the restaurant has changed. It found its own identity—hence its new name—and shed its fine dining image to encourage communal dining with food served in small and big plates.
Helming the kitchen is chef de cuisine Desmond Goh, formerly of Kitchen Language. “I want to make the ordinary extraordinary,” he confesses. He does this by using locally sourced ingredients (as much as possible) and transforming them into mouthwatering modern European fare.
We get our first taste with the starter of gruyere cheese soufflé. The soft and creamy fromage is warm and soft on the palate, and the slightly burnt top adds crunch to every bite. The tinge of chardonnay as well as the caramelised onions ensure that it’s never boring and before we know it, we’re mopping up the last bits of cheese on the plate.
Reminiscent of the original outlet’s roasted beetroot is the salt-baked beetroot and smoked burrata. But chef Desmond made it his own by foregoing the sliced oranges and opting for the cinnamon raisin puree to cut through the earthiness. Some ingredients make a reappearance such as the candied nuts, rocket leaves and thick burrata chunks.
Mains are a mix of highs and lows. While the duck confit is average (we prefer it to be crispier and juicier), the carbonara taglierini is unforgettable. The pasta is made fresh daily and al dente. It’s redolent with rich carbonara sauce studded with kurobuta ham and two kinds of bacon. The chef topped it with parmigiano reggiano crusted egg, which we cut open to reveal the golden yolk that coats the taglierini.
Dessert time—the grand finale. We plough through the menu, and the shiso ice cream catches our attention; so we order it with the lemon curd. It has a slight bite that pairs well with the tanginess of the fruits and lemon, and sweetness of the vanilla Chantilly cream.
Who can say no to desserts with alcohol? Definitely not us. We have the Baileys creme caramel with a cherry compote and a good dash of Remy Martin. Now that’s like a cocktail all on its own.
The chocolate fondant, made sweeter with creme Anglaise and pistachio ice cream, gives us an instant sugar rush. And the onset of a food coma. We are not complaining.
The Disgruntled Brasserie | 28 Ann Siang Road, S(069708) | 6808 2184